[KevinT704]

Kevin

(Bear with me here) I have been watching/studying all of your DVDs and I must say they are exactly what I was looking for. Very informative and I must say well done. My project is a 66 chevelle drag car that sits on a complete tube chassis frame that I built. Originally I was going to farm out the body/paint, but after doing the frame and tin work, and watching your videos, I felt it would be more self-fulfilling to do the body/paint work myself.

A little history on the car body- The car body is a little rough and will have a full quarter panel replacement (original owner did a really cheesy job), new rocker panel, some patch panels in the lower doors, new fiberglass fenders, hood, and deck lid. The doors will be taken down to bare metal and the roof will just be sanded down to the existing paint with 180grit because the original paint looks OK here. Before I get started spraying primers, I want to make sure my approach is valid.

The following is the roadmap I intend to follow:

1. After all the body replacement panels are installed/finished and other metal work done, I plan on DA sanding all metal panels of the car with 180grit and the fiberglass panels with 220grit as you did in the paint your car video.

2. Question at this stage- if I need to use some body filler on the fiberglass parts-Do I need to use finishing putty as opposed to using polyester filler here and feather in?

3. Next, spray the entire car with 2 or 3 coats of Eastwood epoxy primer and let dry for a couple of days.

4. Since I have so many fiberglass parts and because I read many good things about it, I plan on using slick sand for my high build primer. Do I need to sand the epoxy primer first or can I just apply the slick sand right over the top of the epoxy? I will spray on 3 coats and then using a guide coat will block sand all metal panels with 180grit and fiberglass panels with 220grit. After completing the first blocking session, I will re-apply slick sand and re-block any areas that need it.

5. After I am completely satisfied with the block sanding above, I will spray the entire car with 3 coats of a good 2K primer surfacer that is compatible with my chosen paint. The paint I intend to use comes from the paint code off of a 02 corvette that sports a dark metallic blue color. Once the 2K primer is dry, I will wet sand the entire car with 600grit. Once satisfied with the 600 grit sanding, hopefully the next stage will be to start the painting process (that is after I wash the car).

Sorry to be so long winded here, but I just want to make sure I am heading down the right path. Oh, I forgot, I have one more question for you- I have to glass in a 6” cowl induction scoop to the stock fiberglass hood-Would you recommend using fiberglass filler or polyester filler or both to do this? Thanks in advanced for comments.
Kevin T

[Kevin Tetz]

Thanks for the note... it sounds like you've got a good plan..... the only thing that causes me to question is the initial 3 coats of Epoxy primer. is this to seal the metal and glass in? I believe that the slick-sand is a DTM (direct to metal) surfacer and you could spray it directly on the sanded and stripped panels. This would eliminate some costs as well as some layers of solvent, especially since you plan on using two stages of primer surfacers, which I agree with, starting off with poly (slicksand) to aggressively block, then follow with a good 2K fr final sanding. Alot of guys do one panel at atime ( or two) and work around the car in stages to eliminate the whole vehicle being naked and stripped all at once... sounds like you'r mostly fiberglass at this oint anyway, so you're not gonna have to deal with rust on fiberglass.

Depending on the condition and amount of filler your panels need... I'd use regular plain old filler ( I like evercoat) to level, then go to the finishing putty (metal glaze) to finish thing s off and fill pinholes if needed.

Definitely use polyester filler on the 'glass hood... fiberglass is polyester resin-based, so it's perfectly compatible... the 'glass filler would be very difficult to sand, block, and level. ( If I understand your question)

Your grit selection seems good, I think you'll have very good luck with this plan. Holler if Im clear as mud on this..... and I have one more question for you.....

Are you on a budget or is money not your main issue? I dont know anybody that doesnt have a financial ceiling.... it's just that there are paint systems out there that we can direct you to that are budgeet friendly and still excellent quality...

KT

BTW, glad you like the DVDs!
_________________
Thanks for your help on the forum! I hope this helps!

Kevin Tetz
Paintucation Instructional DVDs

[KevinT704]

Kevin
Thanks for the comments. Believe me, my original plan was not use epoxy primer but when I read the product info sheet for the Slick Sand it states in bold print that “All bare metal areas larger than one inch in diameter must be treated with a high quality self-etch or epoxy primer.” I was not sure if they were serious here or just trying to cover their butts. Anyways, if it is needed then I will only spray the epoxy primer on any large bare metal areas. Would you use it this way or just not waste time and go right to the slick sand coatings?

As far as the paint system, I initial was going to choose the same color that my other 66 chevelle street car is painted (blue color I mentioned in the above post) but I am guessing from your comments that this color is extremely expensive or overpriced. I am opened to your suggestions of a more budget friendly paint system as long as I can find a color I can live with. Please advise. Thanks!

[Kevin Tetz]

The P-sheet is your guide.... follow it! I'd stay with a good epoxy rather than an etch, simply because it's less harsh chemicals.

try pricing out what you want first...... Check with PPG DBC systems, and use that as a benchmark, since it's one of the mid to high priced systems.'

Summit Racing has just come out with a two stage base-clear system, they have a decent color selection. I'll know more about this in a week or so, we'll be using it on TRUCKS! I;; have a full report. I also have some color charts I can look at.

The bottom line is that the paint is what you'll be looking at after all the hard work is finished, so dont compromise on the color or you'll regret it. Do some research with some of the major brands at a jobber store or online. TCP Global sells PPG, they also have their own Kustom Shop line.

Hope this helps!

KT.
_________________
Thanks for your help on the forum! I hope this helps!

Kevin Tetz
Paintucation Instructional DVDs